HAPPY NEW YEAR – BHUTANESE STYLE
Losar, or new year is celebrated in Eastern Bhutan on the first day of the 12th month of the Tibetan calendar, rather than the first day of the first month like in most other places, for reasons now shrouded in history.
This year, Dzongsar Jamyang Khyenste Rinpoche (absent abbot of the Chokyi Gyatso Institute) recommended that the resident monks invite all who wish to come from the local villages around to enjoy festivities at their hillside monastery overlooking the rustic hamlet of Dewathang. The little community of 140 or so buzzed with excitement as the preparations took place in the days leading up to the event. This included plenty of practice of the popular local sport “khuru” which was to be a major focus of the Losar activities. In this game, massive (usually home-made) darts are lobbed across a distance of some 40 metres at a tiny target nestled inside a wooden frame festooned with luxuriant leaves and multi-coloured ribbons. It is not so easy to even strike this little board from such a distance, let alone score a bull’s eye so each successful throw is celebrated vociferously with a ritual song and dance. Following this, the lucky player is awarded a long wide ribbon to hang around their waist in a colour corresponding to the spot where their dart struck the target. Those whose throws become too wayward, by contrast, are landed with a large phallic object to hang from their belt supposedly to ward off the evil spirits which are obviously inhibiting their success. The monks used a long dangling purple eggplant for such purpose!
A major part of the fun is for people not involved in the game to crowd around the target, gesturing and taunting as the player is taking aim only to scatter like bunnies if the airborne missile soars off in their direction. Mind you, I noticed that men seem far more likely to to engage in this activity – the women preferring to keep a sensible distance away.
When the big day arrived, people began to stream in from miles around, most of them dressed in fine brilliantly coloured hand loom garments as tradition would dictate. The first feast of the day for a visitor like myself was one for the eyes.
Important item number one on the Losar agenda was the blessing of the ladies Khuru teams by the charming and ever humble resident teacher Khenpo Sonam Tashi.
And so the games began!
At midday, the gathered crowd (numbering in the hundreds) were treated to a scrumptious meal, prepared and served by the monks themselves who, contrary to tradition, were the last to eat. The tall stately temple with its intricate gold relief sculptures juxtaposed against the simplicity of smooth sandstone Buddha images was lined with mats and carpets to become an impromptu eating hall.
The afternoon saw endless more rounds of khuru, enough snacks to feed the Bhutanese army as well as generous portions of beer and locally brewed alcohol such as arah, barley beer and a strange lumpy rice wine called, appropriately enough, “chang-kee.”
As the short winter day drew to a close, we were mesmererised by a gorgeous fiery sunset which cast soothing pastel shades on the tall hills around and the vast Indian plains spreading out below.
Finally, a huge bonfire was lit and we were treated to song, dance and even a little rap deep into the night performed by monks, local villagers and even a couple of stray foreigners.
It was a joyous and wonderful occasion, surely a fitting way to welcome in the new year.
TASHI DELEK TO ALL!