Escape from Kathmandu
November 20 2019: I book a flight to Kathmandu with China Southern for February 15, my Himalayan home.
December 31 2019: China informs the World Health Organisation about a strange new virus.
January 20 2020, Australia’s first Covid-19 case.
February 1: Australia bans foreigners arriving from China.
February 2: Being a “responsible traveller”, I cancel my China flight, rebook with Thai to return in June.
February 20: Kathmandu…. friends, parties and plenty of gigs. All I need to do is chill, for sure it will be over by June.
February 28: Italy to go into lockdown, outbreaks throughout Europe.
March 1: First death in Australia. Lucky I am in Nepal where we don’t have it.
March 11: Australia extends entry ban to South Korea, Japan and Italy, thousands of flights cancelled.
March 12: India closes its borders. There is now no way I can leave Nepal by land. Friends and family urge me to consider returning. I begin searching for a cheap flight out.
Friday the 13th: I resolve to move my ticket forward. After hours on the phone, I hear first available flight is the 24th but he cannot change till Monday.
March 15: Australia and New Zealand enforce 14 days self-quarantine for arrivals.
March 16: I wake late to a panicked message from my partner Kim in Christchurch. She offers to fly me back on the first flight regardless of cost. I line-up at the airline office. The Friday call has led to nothing, they move me to April 1.
I search flights again. Despite Kim’s offer to pay, I settle for a cheaper one to Christchurch on the 22nd with Qatar.
March 18: Australia urges all citizens to return home immediately.
March 19: Jacinda Adern announces a ban on foreigners entering NZ unless they are residents or partners of a Kiwi. I do have a Kiwi partner and have lived there 4 of the last 6 months but how do I prove that? Nepal announces that airlines including Qatar will be banned from midnight on the 20th. I spend half the night trying to book another flight. The earliest I can find is the 23rd. The internet too slow, timing out when I try to pay. After an hour, the 23rd is no longer available, so I try the 24th. When this fails a third time I go to reload the details, suddenly a ticket via Singapore is available for the 20th! Kim has woken up and manages to book with good Kiwi internet. There is a choice: either to Brisbane or Christchurch direct. Nobody thinks NZ will admit me so I opt for Brisbane. Thanks Kim!
March 20: Fruitless hours trying to contact NZ immigration before heading to the airport. Suddenly, my “under the radar” lifestyle seems a liability as I assemble the meagre documents proving my Kiwi credentials. Nepal continues on as normal. My local friends believe that the toxic smog protects them from Covid-19.
At check-in, I ask if I can change my destination to Christchurch. He rings immigration in New Zealand and they knock me back.
March 21: Transit in Singapore. I make another attempt to change to NZ, but encounter a very grumpy clerk. Immigration say “no” again.
In Brisbane I self-isolate in a hotel and book a ticket to Christchurch for the 23rd.
March 22: Cooped up in the hotel, I watch a video where illusionist Derren Brown demonstrates how to hypnotise a stranger into doing what you want them to do. I rehearse half the night. Singapore closes its borders.
March 23: I approach the check-in counter. “I am on my way home to Christchurch,” I tell the woman. As I pass my documents I say, “Oh I left my umbrella outside the window.” She looks a little dazed. I look her straight in the eye and say, “I’m a resident and you are going to check me in.” She nods, rings up immigration and convinces them I should be allowed. Thanks Derren!
It is the last Virgin flight from Brisbane to Christchurch possibly ever. Half of the passengers are laid-off staff. The stewardess gives a moving speech as we land. We applaud in joyful relief.
As we disembark, we are informed that all of NZ will be under 4 weeks self-isolation. That’s fine by me. Thanks Jacinda!